Among the most particular items we find the scarf that is reinvented as an item of clothing, rather than an accessory. If in recent years we had become accustomed to huge scarves-blankets like, now this garment is reinvented by making a cross-piece between a cape and a sweater attaching it to a turtle neck or closing it around the shoulders.
We can see below the interpretations of Philip Lim and Erdem, in both fashion shows it is interpreted in very effective garments, the attention to functionality is a little low of course, we will see if and how it will be reinterpreted by the mass market, but still a beautiful piece. In the Resort 2022 fashion show, Fendi instead makes the scarf an integral part of a coat, integrating it into one of the two lapels.
From Gabriela Hearst’s Resort Spring Summer 2022 fashion show, arrives various jacquard sweaters with landscapes, to printed yarns in unisex maxi ponchos. The knitted poncho was already present also in the Fall Winter 21-22 collection even if with a more artisanal flavor, as you can see in pictures below it seems in fact a real handmade. The poncho is therefore one of the trends for next winter, in its various declinations.
Gabriela Hearst is also the creative director of the Chloè brand in which in the Resort 2022 collection we find a certain continuity respect to the designer’s namesake brand. Indeed the knitted garments with a very handcrafted look are present too, the scarves and ponchos up to the long openwork knit dress.
Optical art was born in the 1960s as an explosion of geometric patterns aimed at creating optical illusions. In art and fashion sometimes we see its return, two examples are these fashion shows: the Resort 2022 collection by the brand PH5 and the Spring Summer 2022 collection by Paco Rabanne. In the first one there are dresses, cardigans and suits with patterns and geometric lines referring to the optical art and at the same time to the digital world that increasingly fills our lives.
The knitted suits with geometric patterns halfway between ethnic motifs and optical illusions in the Paco Rabanne collection are very different. The colors are still bright and the combinations lively. Surely a trend that is always current and that lends itself to multiple interpretations.
Examples of deconstruction and unconventional use of knitwear include Maison Margiela with the Fall-Winter 21-22 collection and Y-Project in the Spring-Summer 2022 collection. In the first one jacquard sweaters are worn on the reverse and garments with a mix of knit stitches from the right side and the back, sometimes torn on the flounces, up to inlay designs worn from the reverse.
In the second one, albeit in a less grunge and alternative way, we see another kind of deconstruction of knitted garments that are cut and edged, sprayed with colors, cut into strips or perforated and intertwined in order to create garments with original and alternative lines, but always captivating for a large market.
Special mention for the “micro” knitted garments, such as the sweaters that cutted above the breast become a new kind of shrug and the hooded sweaters which are semplified in two panels, front, back and the hood as proposed by Philip Lim. Knitted accessories such as gloves, scarves and knitted sleeves are always present, with the addition of a plain or patterned knitted balaclava. The harness-like vest continues to be present even fully open with only a drawstring on the sides.
Links FW ‘21 collections
- Sacai: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/sacai/slideshow/collection#7
- MM6 Maison Margiela: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/mm6-maison-martin-margiela/slideshow/collection#21
- Erdem: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/erdem
- Gabriela Heirst: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst
- Proenza Schouler: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/proenza-schouler/slideshow/collection#10
- Phillip Lim: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
- Acne: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
- Alaia: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/azzedine-alaia
- Adeam: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/adeam
- Brunello Cucinelli: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/brunello-cucinelli
- Altuzzarra: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/altuzarra
- Miu Miu: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/miu-miu
- Stella McCartney: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/stella-mccartney
- Isabel Marant: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/isabel-marant
- Alaia: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/azzedine-alaia
- Paco Rabanne: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/paco-rabanne/slideshow/collection#4
- Y project: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/y-project
- The Row: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/row
- A.L.C.: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/a-l-c
- Phillip Lim: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/3-1-phillip-lim
- Gabriela Heirst: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/gabriela-hearst
- Erdem: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/erdem
- Etro: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/etro
- Sea: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/sea
- Jil Sander: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/jil-sander
- PH5: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/ph5/slideshow/collection#7
- Chloe: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/chloe/slideshow/collection
- Carolina Herrera: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/carolina-herrera