Sustainability in knitwear is no longer just a trend, it has become a concrete necessity. According to the 2019 Pulse of the Fashion Industry report (Global Fashion Agenda & Boston Consulting Group), over 60% of a garment’s environmental impact is determined during the design phase. In this delicate phase, the choice of yarn plays a key strategic role.
Below, we compare two of the most commonly adopted options for sustainability in the knitwear sector: recycled yarns and certified natural fibers.
♻️ Recycled Yarns: Reducing Upstream Impact
Recycled yarns are produced through the mechanical or chemical reuse of pre- or post-consumer materials. The most common ones used in knitwear are:
- Regenerated cotton (mechanically processed from industrial waste or used garments)
- Regenerated wool (mainly from unsold stock or post-consumer collection, especially in Italy – Prato district)
- Recycled polyester (rPET), from PET bottles
📊 Technical Data
An LCA study by Textile Exchange (2021) shows that recycled cotton reduces water use by 98% and CO₂ emissions by 46% compared to conventional cotton.
Recycled polyester requires 59% less energy than virgin polyester (Source: WRAP, 2020).
|
Material |
Water Savings |
CO₂ Emissions Reduction |
Energy Consumption |
|
Regenerated Cotton |
up to 98% |
-46% |
-62% |
|
Regenerated Wool |
up to 99% |
-50% |
-60% |
|
Recycled Polyester |
-20% water |
-45% |
-59% |
✅ Advantages
- Lower use of virgin resources (water, energy, land)
- Ideal for low-impact or upcycled collections
- Also available with GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certifications
⚠️ Limitations
- Fibers often shorter and less durable: affects longevity or performance in fine gauges
- Limited colors in undyed versions (mechanical blending used)
- Synthetic fiber contamination in non-pure blends (e.g., mixed cotton/polyester)
🌱 Certified Natural Fibers: Quality and Traceability from Nature
Certified natural fibers derive from renewable biological sources and are cultivated and processed following standards that aim to reduce environmental and social impact. Unlike conventional natural fibers, those with certifications guarantee specific practices regarding animal conditions, resource use, chemicals, and working conditions throughout the supply chain.
The most relevant certified fibers in sustainable knitwear include:
- GOTS – certified organic cotton
- RAF (Responsible Animal Fiber) – The certification bringing together RWS, RMS and RAF certifications for Wool, Mohair and Alpaca
- EUROPEAN FLAX®-certified linen
📊 Technical and Environmental Features
|
Fiber |
Water Use |
CO₂ Emissions |
Traceability |
|
Organic Cotton (GOTS) |
-91% vs conventional |
-46% |
Full supply chain |
|
RWS Wool |
Better pasture management |
Reduced methane (via animal welfare) |
Farm-to-factory |
|
EUROPEAN FLAX® Linen |
Rain-fed, no irrigation |
Very low |
European cultivation only |
✅ Advantages
- Biodegradability: Unlike synthetic blends, certified natural fibers decompose in composting conditions, reducing microplastic pollution.
- Lower toxicity: Certified fibers limit or eliminate the use of harmful chemicals in cultivation and processing.
- Social responsibility: Standards like GOTS and RWS also ensure fair labor conditions, animal welfare, and farmer health.
- High durability: Compared to some recycled options, natural fibers retain their mechanical properties over time.
⚠️ Limitations
- Resource intensity: Even in certified systems, natural fiber cultivation can require large land areas and seasonal conditions.
- Price variability: Organic or certified fibers often cost more due to stricter controls and lower yields.
- Processing constraints: Some certifications limit available dyeing or finishing techniques, requiring alternative methods.
♻️ Innovations in Textile Recycling: Toward Circular Knitwear
The textile sector is undergoing significant transformation thanks to new technologies aimed at making material recycling more efficient and sustainable. Here are some of the main innovations:
Advanced Chemical and Mechanical Recycling Technologies
- Ambercycle and the Cycora™ Process: Ambercycle has developed a technology that transforms polyester-rich textile waste into new yarns of virgin-like quality. This process has attracted major brands like Inditex, which signed a $70 million contract for Cycora™ materials.
- Circ and Mixed Fabric Recycling: Circ collaborated with ANDRITZ to develop a large-scale recycling facility capable of recovering cotton and polyester from mixed textile waste, addressing one of the most complex challenges in textile recycling.
Automation and Artificial Intelligence in Recycling
- Refiberd and Hyperspectral Imaging: Refiberd uses hyperspectral imaging and artificial intelligence to accurately identify materials in garments, facilitating the recycling of mixed fabrics. This approach earned the company the CFDA x eBay Circular Fashion Fund award.
- Autonomous Sorting Pipeline: A recent study introduced an autonomous textile sorting system combining robotics, spectral imaging, and AI-based classification, enhancing efficiency and accuracy in textile recycling.
Enzymatic Recycling and Biotechnology
- Re-Fresh Global and Enzymatic Hydrolysis: This biotechnological process enables the conversion of almost all used textiles into new raw materials such as nanocellulose and bioethanol, expanding recycling possibilities beyond traditional fibers.
Innovations in Recycled Materials
- Loopamid® by BASF: BASF introduced Loopamid®, the first polyamide 6 (nylon 6) fully recycled from textile waste, used by Inditex to produce jackets with entirely recycled components.
- RE&UP and Mixed Fabric Recycling: RE&UP developed a technology that separates and recycles mixed fabrics like polycotton, producing cotton fibers and polyester chips with quality comparable to virgin materials.